Last week we posted our quick guide to sewing swimwear as the first part of our series focusing on activewear. This week we’ve moved our focus to leggings. Leggings have become hugely popular in recent years, so much so that “athleisure” items have become part of everyday clothing! They’re comfy and flattering, and suitable for everything from sitting on the sofa to working hard in the gym or climbing a mountain! It’s no wonder that people are interested in producing such a versatile item which has great potential for quirky and unique designs. We’ve worked with many customers who are passionate about making quality activewear, so are always happy to recommend the best machines for the job! This quick guide should help you get started and advise you on some of the factors you may wish to consider when looking to produce your own leggings.
Fabrics
One of the main factors to consider when looking to produce leggings is the material you will be using! Man-made fibres are usually the preferred choice for activewear because they are stretchy and moisture-wicking. Like with all applications, you need to consider the requirements of the garment. Leggings need to be “squat proof”, which essentially means they will hold up to the activities they are designed for and won’t become translucent when stretched. They also need to be able to move freely with the wearer regardless of the activity. Fabrics with four-way stretch are ideal for comfort and practical use. Ideally the fabrics you use should recover well when stretched and compressed to ensure they hold their shape and fit, lasting through repeated washing and wearing. There are plenty of fabric options available, but generally these are the most popular for producing activewear:
Polyester
Polyester is a commonly used material, mainly because it is cheap and hydrophobic. This means it is water resistant and sweat wicking, which is important for activewear! Most makers tend to use a polyester blend as full polyester can harbour odours.
Spandex
Spandex is another very popular choice. Almost every pair of activewear leggings has at least some percentage of spandex, which may be listed as Lycra or elastane. It is pliable and fits closely to give a flattering fit which stretches with the wearer. As with polyester, most makers use a blend to make it more comfortable and breathable.
Nylon-Spandex
Nylon-spandex blends are a great choice because they combine the best features of durable, lightweight nylon and stretchy, flattering spandex. They feel soft and comfortable almost like cotton for casual wear but also are effective at wicking away sweat which makes them perfect for activewear. This combination is generally considered to be the best for performance and style.
Bamboo
Bamboo fibres are increasing in popularity in recent years as a more sustainable and eco-friendly alternative to manmade fibres. It effectively draws moisture away from the skin, which gives a cooling effect well-suited to activewear. It is naturally antibacterial and does not hold odour. This is useful when they’re likely to be getting sweaty! Unlike other natural materials, bamboo feels breathable as it absorbs sweat away from the body.
Construction
Your choice of stitch type is partly down to preference, but it needs to be one which can stretch when the fabric does, or your leggings will be uncomfortable and not last very long! Lots of activewear is constructed with flatlock stitches. These are great for sports clothing because they offer strength and stretch whilst being comfortable against the skin. When this method is used, the two pieces of material lay almost as flat as if they’re one whole bit of fabric. Essentially, any stitch which allows the threads to stretch when pulled, such as when the foot goes through when putting leggings on, is ideal.
Seamless leggings
Seamless leggings have been increasingly popular in recent years. They are created by producing the knit fabric for the legs in a tube shape, rather than cutting and stitching individual pieces together. Patterns and textures can be added as part of this process. These types of leggings are favoured for their comfort and smoothing appearance. A mock-seamless effect can be created by using a flatlock machine for the inner seam. If you want to find out more about this process, this short video produced by Gymshark demonstrates the technique:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HzoN6gt0gR4
Machines
Stretchy fabric is perfect for activewear but can sometimes be difficult to work with. Luckily our team are here to recommend the right machines to make your life as easy as possible! You can speak to us directly to receive recommendations tailored to you and you process, but this list is a great starting point based on the machines other makers we work with currently use:
Siruba D007S 4-needle 6-thread feed-off-the-arm flatseaming machine
This machine is used along the inside seam of each leg to create a ‘seamless’ effect. This flatlock technique produces a comfortable seam which is almost invisible.
Juki MF-7523-U11 coverstitch flat-bed machine
This machine is used for flat-seaming and is great for working with elasticated materials. It has a micro-lift mechanism to allow delicate materials to be sewin with the presser foot slightly raised. This reduces slipping and the potential for damage to the material meaning you get a perfect finish.
Juki MF-7923-U11 high-speed cylinder-bed top and bottom coverstitch machine
This machine is used for hemming. The cylinder-bed makes it easy to sew circular parts of the garment like the leg holes and waistband “on the round”.
Juki MF-7523-C11 semi-dry head flat-bed top and bottom coverstitch machine.
This machine is used for attaching binding and decorative details.
Juki MO-6814S 2-needle, 4-thread fully-submerged overlock machine.
This machine is used for overlocking/joining panels of fabric e.g. side-panels along the leg seam.
Juki DDL-7000A-7 direct-drive, 1-needle lockstitch machine with automatic thread trimmer
Juki DDL-9000C digital, direct-drive, high-speed 1-needle lockstitch machine
Flat-bed lockstitch machines like the above can be used for attaching labels.
If you are looking for a machine to take your hobby sewing to a professional standard, planning to start up a new business, or even upgrading existing machines, we can help! We don’t just sell machines in boxes; our team build and them up set up every machine in a way which is tailored to you and your processes. We are also on-hand to provide advice and technical support to keep things running smoothly! You can contact our team directly through the contact form on our website or by emailing info@ae-sewingmachines.co.uk